Going from hot, humid summers to cold, dry winters can mean more than just a wardrobe change. Temperature fluctuations may also prompt a change to your skin. For some, winter brings dry skin and exacerbates conditions like eczema and psoriasis, while the humidity of summer can make skin look very oily.
Angela J. Lamb, MD, Associate Professor of Dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, shares what you need to know about protecting your skin and how to have healthy, glowing skin year-round.
Why does the weather have an effect on your skin?
When the weather is hot and humid outside, your skin ramps up its oil production, which can produce an oily sheen. Alternatively, when the weather is cooler, and maybe the radiators are on more, the low air humidity causes moisture in your skin to evaporate faster, making skin drier.
Should you change your skin care routine as the seasons change?
There are definitely considerations you have to take into account with seasonal change.
For the summer, you want to use a gel-based cleanser and then moisturizers that are a bit lighter—typically products that have hyaluronic acid in them—to avoid clogging your pores.
For the winter, you want to use a thicker, cream-based moisturizer, which will fuse moisture into your skin and not strip it of the oils that are being made naturally. Look for products that contain a humectant—which traps water—like glycerin or glycol. These ingredients will prevent moisture from evaporating off the skin’s surface.
Is there a general rule to a good skin care routine?
I always say that a good skincare routine is simple, simple, simple. Often people are doing far too much to their skin. They come in to my office with bags of 10 different products, and I always say: try to simplify.
I recommend having a cleanser, what I call a ‘power product’—which can be something like a serum or an eye cream—and then a moisturizer. You want to do the same thing morning and night, even if you use slightly different products.
Most people should wash their face twice a day. So, for oily or acne prone skin, you want to use a cleanser with salicylic acid or glycolic acid to help with skin cell turnover and a moisturizer that is a light oil or hyaluronic acid based. For dry skin, you want to use a cleanser that is cream based, which does not have anything in it that’s like a detergent, and a thick moisturizer. So, you should avoid products that have sulfates and look for moisturizers with oils and thick emollients like petrolatum or dimethicone.
How should I change my routine from daytime to nighttime?
Sunscreen is fundamental for a daytime routine, even if you’re not going to be outside for a long time. It is one of the main things you can do for your skin to combat advanced aging, brown spots, wrinkles—all the things people do not want to see on their skin.
A simple daytime routine includes a cleanser, a ‘power product’ for daytime could be a serum with vitamin C or a cream for around the eyes that makes them look less puffy, a sunscreen, and a moisturizer.
You want to do some things that are very similar at night, but—obviously—you will not need a sunscreen. Additionally, in the evening, you may want to use a moisturizer that absorbs oil.
A simple nighttime routine includes a cleanser, a ‘power product’ for nighttime could be a retinol or some type of vitamin A derivative, and a moisturizer.
While sunscreen is the best thing for skin cancer prevention and anti-aging, retinols can almost turn back the clock on fine lines, and wrinkles. They also help build up collagen and can even the tone and texture of skin. I think everyone should be using retinol at night.
How important is it to incorporate sunscreen in your daily routine, particularly for Black women and women of color?
Sunscreen is foundational for anti-aging. While it is true that people who have more pigment in their skin are at a decreased risk of skin cancer—which people often think of as the main reason for using sunscreen—it is also essential for preventing wrinkles. The sun’s rays increase aging. Using sunscreen daily helps to ward off that aging, regardless of your complexion.
And then, of course, the skin cancer prevention is important. It’s very difficult to prevent skin cancer if you’re not wearing sunscreen.
To sum up, use a good cleanser based on your skin type, a good moisturizer based on your skin type, and everyone should be using something—be it a serum or a moisturizer—that has retinol at night.
And, you really shouldn’t be using more than five or six products on your face. I find that people are stressing themselves out trying to do too many things which can cause problems, like irritation or allergic reactions. I encourage people to keep it simple.