As spring turns into summer, people become more aware of protecting their skin from environmental factors like the sun and pollution. However, taking care of your skin and finding the right sunscreen is important to consider year round.
Helen He, MD. Click here to find a dermatology specialist at Mount Sinai.
In this Q&A, Helen He, MD, Assistant Professor of Dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, discusses how to build a solid skincare routine and the importance of sunscreen.
Should you change your skin routine as the weather changes?
The foundation for a good skin routine, which includes a cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen during the day, is constant year-round. However, there are adjustments you can make as the weather changes.
Because the cold air in the winter can dry out your skin, hydration is key, so you might want a rich, creamy cleanser and a thicker moisturizer rich with glycerin and ceramides to protect the skin barrier. In the summer, sweat and oils build up and cause the skin to be more prone to acne breakouts. To adjust, switch to a gel-based cleanser or even a cleansing oil to remove extra oils and a more lightweight moisturizer that won’t clog your pores.
What are the steps to a good daytime and nighttime skin routine?
The first step for both daytime and nighttime routines is to wash the face with a gentle hydrating cleanser to remove excess oils and dirt that may have accumulated during the day or night. Afterwards, some patients may opt for toners, serums, and eye creams. While this step is optional and should be kept simple, there are active ingredients that can be helpful.
For example, vitamin C serum during the day can brighten your complexion and has antioxidant benefits, while retinol/retinoids in the night can help with skin anti-aging, texture, pigmentation, and acne. If your skin is sensitive, add these ingredients to your routine gradually, and with guidance from a dermatologist.
The next step is to use a moisturizer to seal in the water content and keep the skin hydrated. During the daytime, sunscreen is also critical, and you can opt for a moisturizer that contains sunscreen to simplify your routine.
What is the most forgotten skincare step you see in patients?
Patients think sunscreen is only for the summer, but it is important to wear sunscreen year round. Also, many patients apply sunscreen diligently on their face but neglect other sun-exposed areas like the neck and the back of the hands. Equally important, sunscreen needs to be reapplied every two hours, and even more frequently after exercising and/or sweating.
How important is wearing sunscreen daily?
Daily sunscreen is very important. UV radiation has many harmful effects, from sunburns in the short-term to long-term consequences of cumulative exposure, such as increased risk of skin cancer, premature aging and wrinkles, and other issues with skin dyspigmentation and texture.
How do you choose the best sunscreen?
Use a broad-spectrum tinted sunscreen, which covers UVA, UVB, and visible light. For most patients, sun protection factor (SPF) of 30 or higher is recommended, but if you are particularly sensitive to the sun, have a history or high risk of skin cancer, or have skin concerns like rosacea or melanoma, SPF 50 may be better. While both mineral and chemical sunscreens are effective, mineral sunscreens tend to be broader spectrum and less sensitizing.
If you are active outdoors or swim, water-resistant sunscreen is best. Remember to reapply it frequently.
What cosmetic dermatology treatments do you recommend for aging?
As you age, consider incorporating anti-aging and antioxidant ingredients into your skincare regimen such as vitamin C, niacinamide, and retinoids. With consistent use, these ingredients can help to improve skin complexion and texture, reduce wrinkles, and promote collagen production. You can also explore elective procedures such as lasers and other energy-based devices that resurface and tighten skin, neurotoxins (e.g. Botox®), and soft tissue filler augmentation.
Do I need a complicated skincare routine?
Consistency and simplicity are key. The best cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen is the one you will use consistently. Having a complicated skincare regimen with many steps is not necessarily better and can do more harm than good. If you do introduce a new product to your skincare regimen, you should introduce it slowly, perhaps starting out with a few times a week and gradually increase the frequency to daily. Also, only introduce one new product at a time so that if you do get a reaction, you can more easily identify the culprit.